Saturday 16 June 2012. Welcome to Jordan and the start of our exciting and enlightening indepth tour of the country, its people and places. Arrive Queen Alia International Airport and included transfer to our hotel.

Matthew says: The adventure begins! I look forward to meeting you this evening, introducing you to the buzzing Jordanian capital, and chatting about what we can expect in the days ahead. Overnight - Amman

Amman – Umm Qais – Ajloun.This morning we head out to Jordan’s most northerly point, crossing the hills of biblical Gilead to reach the Graeco-Roman city of Umm Qais. This was formerly known as Gadara, and was where Jesus performed the Miracle of the Gadarene Swine. It is also one of the most beautiful places in Jordan, with stunning views over the Sea of Galilee and Golan Heights. Then we head for the rural villages of Al Ayoun, where unique schemes are employing local women to make all-natural food and beauty products from the local olive oil and orchard-grown fruit. We sit with community leaders to hear more, before the short drive to the Ajloun Forest nature reserve, run by Jordan’s Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, hidden away among hilly woodlands of oak and pistachio – one of Jordan’s best-kept secrets.

Matthew says: What a start. Umm Qais is one of my favourite hideaways – a truly epic location which also has deep meaning for the current generation of Palestinian Jordanians. Then I can’t wait to introduce you to my friends in Al Ayoun – a beautiful part of the country. We’ll sleep well tonight, in our cabins among the cool olive groves. Overnight - Ajloun Forest Reserve (B, D)

Ajloun Castle – Jerash – Salt – Madaba. After a scenic breakfast at the rooftop restaurant of the Ajloun Forest lodge, we head to the nearby Ajloun Castle, one of several in Jordan surviving from the Crusader period. This is one of Jordan’s least visited major sites and makes for a fascinating excursion, with excellent views of the surrounding countryside. A short drive leads us to Jerash, considered one of the best-preserved Roman cities anywhere around the Mediterranean. With two theatres, a magnificent oval plaza and a Cardo Maximus (main street) still bearing the marks of chariot tracks made 2,000 years ago, Jerash never disappoints. Following a stop for lunch Matthew leads us through Salt, a bustling small town full of Ottoman-era honeystone villas, before we continue to the historic market town of Madaba, a centre of co-existence between Jordan’s Muslim and Christian communities.

Matthew says: A fascinatingly diverse day, kicking off with tales from Jordan’s Roman and Crusader past at two of the country’s finest sites. Tour groups virtually never visit Salt, but I love it: this is a town rich with history and urban character, and its steep, narrow souk is my favourite in all of Jordan. Tonight in Madaba I’ll introduce you to Charl Twal, who knows his home town better than anyone – and I hope you can join me for an exquisite Lebanese dinner at one of Jordan’s finest restaurants. Overnight - Madaba (B)

Madaba – Mount Nebo – Little Petra.This morning we take time to stroll together through the old quarter of Madaba, exploring charming mosaics, including a splendid 6th-century Byzantine mosaic map of the Holy Land, preserved in the Greek Orthodox church of St George. Then we visit Mount Nebo, the peak from where Moses gazed over the Promised Land before arriving to Little Petra, an outlying corner of the fabulous ancient city of Petra, which serves as a taster for our full visit tomorrow. We are welcomed tonight by the Ammarin, a bedouin tribe who have inhabited the mountains and plains outside Petra since time immemorial, for a magical night under canvas.

Matthew says: Madaba is a cheerful, easygoing market town and our stroll this morning takes in the best of the atmospheric old quarter’s sights and sounds – feel free to indulge in a bit of impromptu purchasing too! The view from Mount Nebo is always a stunner, while our unusual approach to the great lost city of Petra begins tonight at mysterious ‘Little Petra’: expect plenty of stories about life in ancient Petra, as we sit round the campfire with the Ammarin bedouin. Overnight - Ammarin Camp, Little Petra (B, D)

Petra. The ancient city of Petra, protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was carved approximately 2,000 years ago from rugged sandstone cliffs by the Nabateans, an ancient Arabian tribe. Petra's heyday came in controlling the trade in frankincense between Arabia and the West – it became so wealthy that it caught the eye of the Romans, and then became a centre for early Christianity before being lost to outsiders for over 500 years. This year marks the 200th anniversary of Petra’s rediscovery in 1812 by a Swiss explorer: there is no better time to visit. Departing early, we take a unique, rarely used path into Petra via the ‘back door’, culminating at the Monastery, Petra’s largest monument. From there, with Matthew’s stories of Petra to accompany us, we descend through the ‘Rose Red City’, and make our way past tombs and churches to exit via Wadi Muthlim, a canyon route back to our hotel.

Matthew says: An extraordinary day, as we take a path into Petra very few outsiders ever experience. The beauty of this route is that we experience the site in reverse – most visitors see the Monastery at the end of their visit, but we will be there early, before anyone else. Then Petra unfolds gently before us as we descend: there are so many stories to tell, of kings and princesses, wealth gained and wealth lost – every rock has a legend. I can’t wait! Overnight - Petra (B)

Petra – Wadi Rum. Departing our hotel at sunrise we walk with Matthew into Petra again, this time through the ‘front door’ – the amazing Siq canyon gorge. This twisting and turning passageway between 150-metre high cliffs leads us directly to the magnificent Treasury, Petra's most famous facade. After time to take it all in, we walk on through ancient Petra, climbing a rock-cut staircase to the High Place of Sacrifice. At this dramatic summit we pause to take in the stupendous views across Petra’s mountains – and tuck into our picnic boxes for a breakfast to remember. We descend via Wadi Farasa (“Butterfly Valley”) and make our way back through the Siq.

Our journey continues by road to the amazing desert dunes of Wadi Rum, described by Lawrence of Arabia as “vast, echoing and godlike”. We take a 4-wheel-drive tour across the sands, taking in the beauty of the desert, hidden springs and prehistoric carvings before arriving at our own private desert camp. As sunset glows, the colours of the sand, the sky and the mountains take over: Wadi Rum has an almost heavenly feel. While twilight deepens, the crackling of the camp fire, glasses of sweet bedouin tea and the solitude of the desert work their magic – and then night falls, and the starry sky becomes the best view in the world.

Matthew says: The wonders keep on coming. Our early start today is worth it, for the cool morning air and the solitude – not many people see Petra in such silence and majesty. The climb to the High Place is one of the highlights of the entire trip – and then to venture on into the Wadi Rum deserts offers exceptional insight into Jordan, ancient and modern. Tonight we are hosted by the bedouin of Rum, out in the deepest desert, for a night to remember. Overnight - Wadi Rum Bedouin Camp (B, D)

Wadi Rum - Aqaba – Feynan. After a magical sunrise over the desert sands of Wadi Rum, we depart to Jordan’s Red Sea resort of Aqaba. Here we have the opportunity to snorkel in crystal-clear waters, viewing tropical fish and beautifully preserved colourful coral reefs, and explore the souks and alleyways of this fascinating port town with Matthew as our personal guide.

Departing after lunch we drive north into the great Wadi Araba desert, to reach the Feynan Ecolodge, recognised as one of the world’s leading environmentally sound wilderness lodges. Feynan is a beautiful, almost monastic desert retreat, far from the nearest road – we are driven in by local bedouin, to learn more of their culture in the isolated spot and spend time exploring the landscape. The lodge has an extensive recycling programme, uses only solar power and is lit at night by locally handmade candles.

Matthew says: After Petra and Rum, this morning we suddenly find ourselves back in the real world, with a blast of beach-side reality in Aqaba. Goggle at the tropical Red Sea fish – but also take in the long history and fascinating contemporary character of Aqaba: there’s lots to discover here. Feynan is simply gorgeous. I’ll introduce you to environmental campaigner Nabil Tarazi: Nabil can explain more about this beautiful place and Feynan’s key role in development for the desert communities of Wadi Araba. He’s a fascinating character – and it’s an amazing place to spend the night. Overnight - Feynan Ecolodge (B, D)

Dead Sea – Amman. This morning we drive through epic desert scenery to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, where we have the opportunity to float in the saline, mineral rich waters of this huge, glittering blue lake, famed for their healing properties. It’s an experience like no other. After lunch we return to Amman to explore this fascinating modern city, with its Roman core and surprising urban hideaways – galleries, bars, cafés and clubs. Most visitors overlook Amman, but as Jordan’s capital it’s here that our experiences during the week ‘click’ and fall into place. We take our time to absorb the atmosphere, chat with locals and get under the skin of what it means to be Jordanian.

Matthew says: A really exciting day. The Dead Sea is an extraordinary place, a natural phenomenon with unique geography and geology – and an eye-opening role in human history, from Sodom and Gomorrah to the Rio Earth Summit. Then there’s Amman, a city I know and love. I’ve lined up a fascinating cast of characters for this afternoon and evening – expect great conversation, amazing food, and some unusual experiences! Overnight - Amman (B, L, D)

Sunday 24 June 2012. After breakfast, our tour of Jordan with Matthew Teller comes to an end. If you have free time, spend the day sightseeing in and around Amman, before your included departure transfer to the airport.

Matthew says: A pleasure to meet you, and a delight to travel together. Maybe our paths will cross again… (B)